BAND & FRAME FIXES

Common Issue, Diagnosis and Solution for Band and Frame

Ah, the world of bras – we’ve all been there, dealing with a band that insists on riding up, straps that dig in, or a fit that just doesn’t feel quite right. But no worries, we’ve got you covered from every angle! In this article, we will discuss some of the most common issues related to the band and frame, their diagnosis, and practical solutions to help you create comfortable and supportive lingerie for your customers.

Issue 1: The Band Rides Up the Back, but the Front is Fine

Diagnosis: The band is too loose.

Solution: Before concluding that the band is too large, remember that the toile (the initial fabric prototype) may feel a bit loose since it lacks elastic. To check, ensure that only two fingers can fit under the band when the bra is fastened at its loosest hook row. If it’s too big, here’s what to do:

Estimate the needed band reduction.

Remove half of this amount from each side seam. If there’s no side seam, mark the toile at the underarm and adjust accordingly.
Adjust the back band angle and underarm area, being careful not to change the band’s height at either end.

Issue 2: Bra Tilts Forward Due to Breast Weight

Diagnosis: Band issues or lack of support due to fabric or structure.

Solutions: Opt for a fabric with a maximum stretch of 30% for ample support. Enhance support particularly by adding a scoop back, increasing hook and eye closure height, or incorporating boning to the side seam.

Scoop Back: Create a curving scoop from the hook and eye closure to the back straps’ attachment point.

Hook and Eye Closure: Modify the closure height as per the bra’s requirement.
Boning: Incorporate boning into the side seam for added support.

Issue 3: Uncomfortable Breathing and Digging into the Body

Diagnosis: The band is too tight, or the cups are too small.

Solution: If the cups are clearly too small, consider going up a size and then proceed with fitting. Otherwise, if the band is too tight:

Check the fabric stretch to ensure it is correctly oriented around the body. Recut the band if necessary.

If the fabric stretch is correct and the band is too tight, increase the length by following these steps:

> Estimate the total amount the band needs to be increased.

> Add half of this amount to each side seam. If your pattern lacks side seams, mark the toile at the underarm and adjust as needed.

> Redraw the back band angle and underarm area without altering the height of the band at either end.

Issue 4: Bra Feels Like It’s in the Armpit or Irritates Underarm

Diagnosis: The underarm area is too high.

Solution: Lower the height of the bra at the underarm:

Lay out the cups, frame, and band pattern pieces on another sheet of paper, aligning them at their seam lines at the underarm.

Tape the joined pattern pieces to the paper.
Draw the desired new underarm height and cut the revised pattern pieces accordingly. Note that lowering the underarm might require using a shorter underwire.

Issue 5: Bra Doesn’t Cover the Underarm Area

Diagnosis: The underarm area is too low.

Solution: Raise the height of the bra at the underarm:

Lay out the cups, frame, and band pattern pieces on a separate sheet of paper, matching them at their seam lines at the underarm.

Tape the joined pattern pieces to the paper.
Draw in the new desired underarm height and cut the revised pattern pieces. Be aware that raising the underarm may require using a longer underwire.

Creating comfortable and well-fitting bras in the intimate apparel industry is both an art and a science. By understanding common issues related to the band and frame and implementing the appropriate diagnoses and solutions, start-ups and entrepreneurs in the intimate apparel industry can undoubtedly create bras that offer superior comfort and support.

Remember that achieving the perfect fit is a journey of adjustments and fine-tuning, but with dedication and the right knowledge, you can excel in this dynamic industry.

Want to know more. Check out our blog post on ‘Common Issue, Diagnosis and Solution for Straps’ and ‘Common Issue, Diagnosis and Solution for Cups’.