Design Techniques for Plus Fit Bras

The intimate apparel industry has made significant progress in designing and fitting bras for core sizes, ranging from 32 to 38 band sizes and AA to DD cup fits. However, when it comes to catering to larger cup sizes, such as GG, H, HH, J, K, L, and M, technical and design challenges arise. In this blog post, we will explore the design techniques and engineering factors that contribute to successful plus fit bras, addressing the growing demand for comfortable and supportive lingerie for plus-size women.

UNDERSTANDING THE UNIQUE MARKET

Do you know plus-size bras hold a significant market share? With projections showing that by 2054, the average 30-year-old British woman will weigh around 110 kg (252 lbs.), the demand for plus fit bras becomes even more evident. Investing in the manufacturing of these bras can lead to higher profits, as customers tend to be loyal when they find a brand that caters to their needs.

SIZING AND GRADING CONSIDERATIONS

One of the first hurdles we encounter is the limitations of the formula fit method for determining plus fit bra sizes. It’s essential to acknowledge that individual preferences and body variations can influence the ideal fit. While the formula fit may suggest a particular size, it’s common for women to choose a smaller band size and a larger cup size for improved comfort and support. our customers. 

WIRE SELECTION

Selecting the right wire is paramount when designing plus fit bras. Unlike core-sized bras, larger cup sizes require heavier gauge wires that strike a delicate balance between flexibility and support. These wires must prevent the breasts from spreading over the rib cage or spilling under the arms. By opting for thicker wires, we can provide the necessary structure and durability that plus-size women require.

SLING SUPPORT AND CRADLE CONSIDERATIONS

Supporting heavier breasts necessitates the use of effective pattern shapes, such as slings, either internal or external. These slings elevate the breasts into a controlled position on the chest wall, ensuring optimal support and shape. It’s important to consider fabric grain and stretch when designing the slings to maintain proper support and comfort. Additionally, paying attention to the neckline edge of the top cup and restricting its stretch with a rigid tape can enhance support and shape retention.

THE CF BRIDGE AND WING FABRIC

To achieve a well-proportioned fit, it is advisable to reduce the width of the centre front (CF) bridge from DD cup size onward. This adjustment ensures that the bridge aligns proportionately with the rest of the bra. As for the wing fabric, it should possess a firm stretch, typically measured using a warp modulus of 750-950 at 40% extension. This characteristic allows the underband to apply the appropriate pressure, creating a supportive and comfortable fit.

GRADING FOR PLUS SIZES

Grading larger cup sizes poses unique challenges. However, by following some essential rules, we can achieve a better fit. Deeper grading in the bottom cup accommodates volume, while restricting growth from CF to POB overbust seam balances fit. It’s also important to consider the impact of cup grading on the front cradle length and wing length to maintain consistency and overall comfort.

EMBRACING TECHNOLOGY

In our quest to continually improve, we can leverage technology to enhance the design and fit of plus fit bras. Innovative solutions, such as bra pressure sensors, enable us to gain deeper insights into bra fit characteristics.

As designers in the intimate apparel industry, it is our responsibility to address the technical and design challenges associated with plus fit bras. By incorporating the discussed design techniques, such as thoughtful wire selection, effective sling support, and appropriate grading, entrepreneurs can create plus fit bras that priorities comfort, support, and customer satisfaction. Let’s embrace this opportunity to cater to the growing market segment, ensuring that plus-size women feel empowered, confident, and comfortable in their intimate apparel choices.